Thai Pork Satay

Place the pork back fat in a small pot and add just enough water to cover it.

Set over high heat, bring to a rolling simmer, then reduce heat and cook until the fat turns slightly translucent, about 5 minutes.

Drain the fat, discard the water, and cut it into roughly 3/4-inch squares about 1/4 inch thick.

Skewer one fat cube per skewer, pushing it down to about 4 inches from the tip.

Weave a skewer through the center of each pork strip, entering and exiting several times so the strip is firmly fixed and ends just below the tip.

Combine the coriander and cumin seeds in a small pan over medium-low heat.

Toast the spices, stirring and tossing often, until very fragrant and the coriander darkens a shade or two, about 8 minutes.

Let the spices cool slightly, then pound in a mortar or grind to a coarse powder.

In a blender, combine the spice powder, condensed milk, lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, sugar, salt, white pepper, and all but a few tablespoons of the coconut milk. Blend until smooth.

Pour the marinade into a deep, narrow container. Swish the remaining coconut milk in the blender and add it too.

Add the skewers to the marinade so the meat (not necessarily the fat) is submerged, and let sit for at least 30 minutes up to 1 hour.

Prepare a charcoal grill for medium-high to high heat, or preheat a lightly oiled flat griddle over medium-high heat.

Remove the skewers from the marinade, letting excess drip back, and season both sides of the pork with salt.

Grill in batches, turning once and moving to prevent flare-ups, until just cooked through and charred to your liking, about 3 to 6 minutes total.

Serve immediately (or cover loosely with foil up to 15 minutes) with peanut sauce, cucumber relish, and grilled bread.